Lecce, Puglia
Ah, Lecce. The heart of the Salento. It is a shining gem of baroque architecture surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. It is a perfect home-base for an off-the-beaten-track journey in Italy, and even if you never left the city, you would not regret your trip. The city itself is full of things to see and do, but it is also a great starting point for day trips to nearby beaches, smaller cities in the Salento region, and the Puglia countryside. Lecce is my second home and THE reason I started writing this blog.
Lecce’s nickname is the “Florence of the South” for the wealth of art and culture found here. Lecce is overflowing with churches, museums, theaters, and more. Even if all you do is wander down the streets and alleys, the city provides a very rich experience — from ancient roman amphitheaters and sculpted facades on buildings to street art — and street food! Lecce can’t help but share its beauty.
Top 5 things to see and do in Lecce
Where to eat
Where to stay
Other things to see and do
See the 3 main entrances to the historic center: Porta San Biagio, Porta Napoli, and Porta Rudiae. These monumental doorways were part of the city walls that protected the old town.
Try the specialty coffee. The Salento region has coffee drinks that you won’t find anywhere else. Iced coffee with almond milk (more a syrup than a milk), espressino, and iced espressino.
Learn some Italian. Taking a language class is a great way to gain deeper knowledge of the country and the region. Teachers help you master the language and activities outside the classroom immerse you in local culture.
Learn to cook. Italian food is central to the culture. Eating regional specialties is just the start. Learn to make them yourself and experience a whole new level of food enjoyment. The best part is, you and recreate these culinary delights even after you return home.
Visit the Railroad Museum. The Museo Ferroviario is a surprisingly comprehensive museum. It is filled with information on the history of trains in the region. Rooms full of equipment are set up like stations. There are model trains and even a room filled with full-size trains to explore.
Take a trip into the past at the archeological museum. The Museo Sigismondo Castromediano is a walk through the history of the Salento region. It’s a truly astounding collection, especially considering it’s free. Warning: You may go a little pottery-blind as you walk through hall of ceramic artifacts.
Walk through the Fantasy Museum. Museo Fantasy is right on one of the major shopping roads in the historic center. It was put together by two brothers who used to work in the film industry. They created a museum full of hyper-realistic figures, fantastic sculptures, and special effects. A refreshing break from art and history museums. Yep. I said it.
Eat gelato. You have to, of course. But seek out flavors that you won’t easily find anywhere else, like Fichi d’India, pesto di pistacchio, and cocomero — a local vegetable that is a cross between a cucumber and a melon. Ask for recommendations at any of the fantastic gelaterie in Lecce.
See some art. There are so many museums and churches that are overflowing with art in Lecce it’s hard to know where to start. Find modern art at the MUST. Sacred art is in every church, but the main museum is the Museo Diocesano d’Arte Sacra in Piazza del Duomo.
Seek out street food. Street food is a cuisine in and of itself in Italy. In Lecce, don’t leave without trying the frisa (a crunchy, bagel-esque bread with a variety of toppings) and the rustico (a flakey, savory pastry filled with cheese and tomato).
Seek out street ART. Get out of the museums and onto the streets. Graffiti is everywhere, and some of it is remarkable. But there are some pockets of the city where it is truly inspired. The murals at San Giovanni Battista and on the sides of the buildings in the nearby apartment buildings, and scattered throughout the city are shining examples of street art — at times moving, at times provocative, and always beautifully rendered.
Do an olive oil tasting. The history of olive oil in the region is thick and deep. Most of the oil produced in Italy comes from Puglia, and it stands to reason that the growers know a thing or two about it. Fortunately, they are willing to share their knowledge and their oil. It’s also a great way to buy local estate-grown olive oil to bring home.
While you’re at it, do a wine tasting. The regional grapes in the Salento make some unique and delicious wine. A trip to a vineyard lets you see how they are cultivated and how the wines are produced… and, naturally, you’ll get to taste them all and maybe buy a bottle or two.
Chill out in one of the many green spaces. Take a break from the art, architecture, and traffic in the public gardens and parks. The public garden in the city center is nice and shady, with lots of places to sit and relax. But there is also the Parco Belloluogo, the city wall garden, and the cemetery — it sounds macabre, but the landscaped gardens and baroque architecture (yes, even here) stand toe-to-toe with the rest of the city’s… and it’s not even a little creepy.