Anyone who knows me knows I walk a LOT, so this alone means I happen by places as a part of my continual… wandering. If you spend much time at all walking around Lecce, you will pass ‘La Cucina’ di Mamma Elvira — several times, even. It blends into its surroundings like so many hidden gems in Lecce. Inside, is a different story. It has a quiet elegance that permeates everything from the decor to the food. You can’t beat the convenience. It is a few steps away from Piazza St. Oronzo in the historic center. The ambiance, friendly service and subtle, innovative twists on classic dishes of Puglia make it well worth stopping in.
To tell this story, I have to back up a little bit. I had seen this restaurant in Lecce on many occasions, while wandering around the city. I stayed for a month at a B&B steps away from the restaurant and I saw it several times a day. The day I finally did go in went something like this:
I woke up late having stayed up for a conference call at 3am. I’m not complaining; it’s a small price to pay for the flexibility of working from wherever I want. Knowing I had to get moving on my to-do list, I hurried up to get dressed, grabbed a cappuccino at the corner bar…. and watched the snow come down. Yep… snow. (It was January, but snow is still pretty rare in southern Puglia.) I stared at it with a weird sense of awe and anger. The snow settling on the palm trees across the street blew my mind. Anyway, it was cold, and in spite of the beauty of the snow, it made me angry. My sanctuary from the bitter cold of mid-winter Minnesota had the gall to be cold and snowy. Did I mention it was cold?
Anyway, I rushed back home (carefully… it’s slippery in the slush) and hunkered down with my laptop. After a few hours, I got hungry, but the snow was still coming down. I wanted to stay home, but had nothing to eat. The frustration of the weather and everything had me in a funk. As much as I wanted to keep my head down and get stuff done, I knew going out for a warm meal — away from my work — would be good for me.
Walking to any of the places that came to mind (Angiulino’s osteria is always a favorite) was out of the question. I couldn’t face the cold, the wet feet, and the risk of death as I skidded my way along the slushy sidewalks. I opened up Google Maps and took a look at what was close by. And there it was… Mamma Elvira – La Cucina. Right around the corner. So I bundled up and went out.
The sign on the front (where you would expect the door to be) said to go around to the other door. It’s around the corner, but it’s not RIGHT there… so keep looking. I walked in and was greeted by shelves upon shelves of Pugliese wines. (The Cucina is actually their second location. The first being an enoteca that specializes in local wine.) Low-key jazz was playing (I didn’t hate it… it wasn’t that kind of jazz), and I worried that I had made a mistake. Jazz means expensive. I didn’t relish the idea of paying for a big expensive lunch, but I stayed anyway.
I sat down at a table right inside and admired the atmosphere. The interior was classic. The walls were the honey-colored Leccese stone that you find everywhere in the region. Antique photographs lined the walls. The furniture was modern — a nice juxtaposition to the old-fashioned feel of the rest of the decor. Walls of wine bottles divided the spaces. They were not just for show — the waiter reached behind me to grab a bottle to bring to another table. It was the perfect setting to what I would discover on the menu.
Of course, the wine list was full to bursting with local wines. (Side note: I love reading menus that have English translations. I saw in English first “Italian Bubbles” and did a double take. Then I had to read the Italian “Bolla Italiana” to clear up the confusion… ah, yes. Bubbly wines. For the record, they offer “French Bubbles” too.)
The menu was full of Lecce specialties like fave e ciccorie (bean puree and bitter greens), pezzi di cavallo in sugo (meat stew), ceceri e tria (pasta and chickpeas). As much as I wanted comfort food, I wasn’t quite ready to commit to the heartier fare — or the obligatory post-lunch nap). I settled on the appetizer – Involtini di melanzane con pesce spada (eggplant slices rolled up and stuffed with swordfish). It sounded simple and nourishing. Exactly what I needed to boost my spirits on a day like this.
When my plate arrived, I paused. I had only been in Italy a few days and my expectations of food portions had yet to calibrate. I wasn’t sure this diminutive dish would be enough for lunch. (Not a terrible situation. The remedy is ordering dessert!) What was NOT small was the flavor. The description made me think I was ordering the classic dish that I have had before. Good. Simple. But, this was an elevated version. Sauced with a green olive-based puree, and something almost imperceptibly spicy, like it didn’t want to draw attention to itself. Still, it gave it a certain depth. The eggplant slices were thin and fried. It was a perfect combination of textures: creamy inside, with a little tooth on the outside. The swordfish was light and delicious. The unexpected addition of paprika added a new dimension to the dish. Paired with a slice of hefty, dense bread with a chewy crust, this was a deeply satisfying meal.
I declined the dessert but did order a coffee. Instead of the usual cup of espresso delivered to my table, the waiter brought a wooden platter with a Moka, all set up with a cheerful orange demitasse cup and a dish of sugars. The aesthetic alone was delightful, again pairing classic and modern. It was the perfect cap to a lighter lunch.
I regret not ordering a glass of wine, and not having eaten here sooner. Everything about the place was pleasing. The decor stood on its own, not trying to be something it wasn’t, but also not trying too hard be old-fashioned. The same with the menu. The traditional, regional dishes were not entirely reinvented, but reconsidered and put together with care. It was elegant but not pretentious or uncomfortable. It met me where I was on a rough day, and was almost grateful for the unhappy circumstances that brought me there.
Update: I went back here. Twice. The staff is always polite and friendly. Ceceri e tria is delicious (crunchy and hearty). The pezzi di cavalli in sugo is incredible with a tiny kick of spice and I wanted to lick the plate. Also, no surprise, the wine was good. I didn’t know what to order, so the server brought out a couple to taste. I went the the negramaro… no regrets.